Sunday, September 28, 2008

Sunday, Sunday, Sunday!

Wow, 5 days is an eternity here.
I just arrived back in Bir a few hours ago (by bus) and am really glad to be back. I'm very glad I went to Dharmasala, but it's so crazy there in comparison.
Here's the rundown:
Wednesday
I got on the morning bus and met a Brazilian woman named Juliene (who I had seen briefly at Deer Park, but hadn't met yet). When we changed buses in Baijnath, a Croatian woman I had met at Deer Park (named Ines) got on the bus, too. So far I haven't had to do much traveling "alone" here. My friend Momoko met me at the bus stand in McLeod Ganj (Dharmasala) and we went register me for HH's teachings. After that we went to get lunch and then she took me to the Geden Choeling Nunnery (http://gedenchoelingnunnery.org/) where I was going to stay. I put my things down and we walked around the market some more. There are a lot of tourists and restaurants in McLeod. It was esp. crazy because HH Dalai Lama was teaching. I bought an Indian-style shirt. I'm beginning to realize that wearing long shirts are better to avoid harassment on the street and gain a little more respect from locals. Momoko took me to Namgyal Monastery (HH Dalai Lama's temple). It was so amazing. His house is RIGHT next to it (inside the same gate, but then an extra gate dividing it from the temple). It sits on the edge of the mountain...well, everything in McLeod does. It's about 2000 meters higher than Bir.
I ran into Shira, the Israeli girl I shared the taxi with from the train station, and we made plans to have dinner Thursday night.
We met up with Shona, the girl I was staying with at the nunnery, for dinner. We had an amazing Japanese meal and then off to bed.
Thursday
Up early to the sound of the nuns' gong at 5 am for their offering ceremony (puja)...but went back to bed until 6. Shona, Momoko and I had a cup of chai and then walked to Namgyal Monastery for the teaching. We got there really early to get seats (all on the floor, of course...but we brough cushions to sit on). We sat with all the Tibetans (rather than the other foreigners)- we weren't on the same level of the building with HH, but we were about 5 feet from him when he walked down the stairs to leave. We had fm transmitters with ear phones to listen to the English translation, although he taught a lot in English.
It would be impossible to explain the teachings or the experience of being in the same vicinity as HH...it is really beyond words.
They served tea (Shona told me to bring a cup) we had a 1 1/2 hour lunch break.
Shona and I stayed for the Recap/Q&A session after the teaching and then went back to our room. A room became available accross the hall from Shona, so I moved. I was glad to have my own space!
Momoko, Shira, 3 of her friends, and I went to dinner at a Korean restaurant that was GREAT!
Friday
Teachings all day and I sat on the same level as Thursday, but where I could see the flatscreen TV (showing HH teaching from upstairs). I sat with a really old Tibetan man in the morning session who I attempted to speak to, but ended up doing more sign language...
In the afternoon I sat next to a Tibetan woman with the most adorable baby who sat in my lap and tried to eat my glasses. I still managed to feverishly take notes! Shona and I stayed for the Recap/Q&A session again- very helpful in clarifying the teachings.
Momoko left after the teachings and I was sad to see her go- she and I had a great connection! I went to breakfast alone and ended up seeing her! She lives in Rishikesh, so I may visit her when I'm traveling in December.
I ran into Juliene (my new Brazilian friend from Bir). We had lunch (and I had strawberry ice cream!!! We don't have ice cream in Bir...) We made plans to take the bus back together on Sunday.
The monkeys here are mean, so you have to avoid eye contact (or any contact for that matter) with them. I was reading on the roof of the nunnery and 3 came up the stairs after me...my heart was racing so hard....suffice is to say, I made it out of there in one piece.
Friday evening I went to dinner with Shira and 2 of her friends at the Japanese restaurant (what can I say, I eat a lot of Indian food at Deer Park...hehe).
Saturday
The teachings ended after the morning session. We renewed our Refuge vows, so basically I bawled for 30 minutes. It was truly the most amazing blessing. I ended up taking 35 pages of notes over the 3 days...so you can see why I can't explain what I learned....but basically, he taught about understanding interdependence and compassion. He also gave great history lessons about the great Buddhist scholars. Again...it was beyond words.
I went to a cooking class with Shira and her friends (along with some other Israelis and a German couple). It was 11 of us crammed into this tiny Indian kitchen. We had a great time. He taught us how to make Dal (lentils), Palak Panner (spinach & cheese) and Malai Kofta (deep fried potato/cheese blobs in this creamy, sweet sauce). We got to eat it when we were done. SO good. Then, we all walked down to a cafe called, Carpe Diem, to have dessert (my favorite!) We had "Hello to the Queen" (ice cream, chocolate, crushed cookie, coconut, caramel....mmm) I haven't been eating gluten for a few months now, but I totally broke my streak for that! (and unfortunately felt it later...but still worth it!!)
Sunday
Today I woke up and had breakfast with Juliene, then we took an hour walk ALL the way around Namgyal Monastery & HH's home. It was SO beautiful. You can see alll the way down into the valleys and there are stones with "Om Mani Padme Hum" (the mantra for HH- it means "The Jewel in the Lotus") all over the mountain. People make them and leave them in piles. There were also some small stupas (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stupa) and prayer wheels. It was a great way to wrap up my time in McLeod.
I saw Shira and her friends when I was walking back to the nunnery to get my bags, so I sat and had a cup of tea. She and I have a great karmic connection because we saw each other so much and never had try to find each other! I told her not to bother calling if she visits DC, because we'd probably run into each other.
The bus ride home was a lot faster than going there. Here are a few memorable things (and in general about India):
  • Pot holes ARE the roads in India...so it's a bumpy ride.
  • Staring over the edge of the road is easy- there's no guardrail!
  • Infants, toddlers and children on motorcycles and scooters with either 1 or 2 of their parents- quite common! (What are helmets? Seatbelts?)
  • Cows grazing or sleeping (grass, dumpsters...whatever...)
  • Indian women get excited when I smile at them (esp. young girls, they giggle and tell their friends, "She smiled at me!")
  • Indian men love to wear high-waisted bellbottomy-type jeans/pants and tucked in shirts
  • The sights, smells and sounds of India are extreme in every way imaginable
  • The clash of modern and traditional clothes and customs make it somewhat confusing to know what is acceptable and what is not.

I have enjoyed my long weekend away from my new "home," but am glad to be back in the quiet town of Bir. Tomorrow my first class starts, so I'm back to business

LOVE

2 comments:

Genevieve said...

I am cracking up thinking about monkeys chasing you. Best image ever. Roxy says hello and wishes you could give her some belly rubs. Miss you miss you miss you!!

MsT said...

Sounds like an amazing series of teachings - we were on retreat at the same time! That's a good description of the sights and sounds of India - so extreme, I think you said. Loving this blog - thanks for sharing it with us :) xxoo